Saturday, July 9, 2011

Modeling StuGs and Tiger 1E

After choosing a StuG Batterie: 189. Sturmgeshutzabteilung as my first small company, I've decided to buy and assemble the models. At this stage I though it was an optimal choice to buy a platoon of StuGs (GBX25) and a single blister of Tiger 1E with Zimmerit (GE071). I knew that my adventure with FOW won't finish on collecting a single 600-point company, so I opted for the most universal forces I could collect at that stage.


I bought a StuGs platoon box that contained 5 individually sculpted StuGs with 3 different options to model barrels (5 standard, 5 saukopf (pig's head) mantlet, and 3 StuH42 10.5cm). OK so which one I was supposed to choose? I knew that I need one StuH, but I didn't know whether I will need it in a long run (not all rosters give you an option to replace StuGs with StuHs). To solve the problem, I've decided to model guns using small magnets, which makes it easy to replace the barrels when needed. It worked really well!


Then I thought about customizing my “individually sculpted” vehicles, so they are really unique (yeah everyone has them, so they are not so individual anymore ;). I've added some meshes and munition belts. I've also added some damage to one of the schurzens.


The modeling of the Tiger 1E was rather standard. Easy to assemble – nice looking tank as it is obviously beautiful art of warfare.


The next step was to apply the base coat. I used the Army Painter German Armour (SP04) for that purpose.


The following step was to pain the camo with Vallejo Chocolate Brown (MC149) and Reflective Green (MC090). I have to admit that I was to precise while painting the patches. I definitely should put less patches then I did, and apply them with the mixture 50/50 (paint / water). Then I applied gloss varnish.



Finally, I tried to wash the models a little bit. Unfortunately, I didn't have dedicated wash paints for that purpose, so I did it with the diluted black paint. At the end, it turned out that It wasn't a great idea, because after a while heavier paint went down to the bottom leaving water above. At the end I used Vallejo pigments to weather models with matt varnish.









Lessons learned
  1. Don't apply to many patches while painting German camo on vehicles – it won't look great from the distance.
  2. If you are applying varnishes they will make your model darker, so apply highlights (drybrush) model with a lighter color before (don't worry that it will look too bright).
  3. Use dedicated wash paints for that purpose.
  4. For the StuGs it is easy to make exchangeable barrels with magnets giving you a nice option to choose between StuGs and StuHs whenever you like.

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